ASTM F1773-97

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An American National Standard
Designation: F 1773 – 97
Standard Terminology Relating to
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Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment and Practices
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F 1773; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.1.10 lead climbing, n—the skill of climbing first up a
pitch, utilizing a belayer, climbing rope, and intermediate
1.1 This terminology defines the terms that are unique to
protection anchors.
climbing and mountaineering and the statistical basis for rating
3.1.11 rappel, n—the set up of anchors and equipment used
a product’s performance.
to rappel.
2. Referenced Documents 3.1.12 rappel, v—to descend by sliding down a rope using
equipment or special technique, or both, which applies friction,
2.1 ASTM Standards:
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thereby controlling the speed of descent.
E 456 Terminology Relating to Quality and Statistics
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3.1.13 route, n—the path chosen by a climber.
E 1150 Definitions of Terms Relating to Fatigue
3.1.14 self belay, n—a technique of self protection em-
3. Terminology
ployed by a climber using climbing and mountaineering
equipment.
3.1 Definitions of General Climbing and Mountaineering
3.1.15 soloing, n—a technique of climbing where the
Terms:
climber is alone. A belay may or may not be used.
3.1.1 aid climbing, n—a technique of climbing that utilizes
3.1.16 top rope climbing, n—a technique of climbing
auxiliary devices as a means of ascent to supplement the
where the climber is safeguarded by a roped belay from above.
natural features of the surface being climbed.
3.2 Definitions of Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment
3.1.2 belay, n—a technique where a stationary person
Terms:
controls a rope connected to a moving climber in order to
3.2.1 accessory cord, n—ropes used for climbing and
provide protection against a fall, or in the event of a fall, to
mountaineering purposes that are not designed to absorb fall
catch the climber.
impact energy.
3.1.3 belay, v—to protect a climber with a belay.
3.2.2 artificial climbing wall (ACW), n—a wall exclu-
3.1.4 belayer, n—a person who is belaying.
sively designed and built for climbing. The ACWs may be
3.1.5 bouldering, n—a technique of climbing where climb-
designed and used for lead climbing, top rope climbing or
ers remain close to the ground and do not use a rope to
bouldering. The ACWs may be transportable or permanent.
safeguard their progress.
3.2.3 ascender, n—a device used to ascend a rope.
3.1.6 climber, n—a person engaging in the sport of climb-
3.2.4 belay anchor, n—an anchor used to secure the rope or
ing and mountaineering.
belayer, or both, while belaying a climber. It also may be used
3.1.7 climbing and mountaineering, n—the sport of as-
with ropes while descending or lowering.
cending, descending, and traversing on mountainous terrain,
3.2.5 belay bar, n—a belay anchor made from pipe or a bar.
snow and ice, and natural and simulated rock surfaces.
3.2.6 belay device, n—a mechanical device used to control
3.1.8 climbing and mountaineering equipment, n—the
the friction on a rope.
equipment exclusively designed for use in climbing and
3.2.7 belay station, n—a place where belay anchors are
mountaineering.
located.
3.1.9 free climbing, n—a technique of climbing that uses
3.2.8 bolt hanger, n—a device which, when attached to a
only the natural features of the surface being climbed. In free
surface by the means of a bolt, is used to provide an anchor
climbing, equipment may be utilized to provide protection in
point.
the event of a fall, but is not used to assist progress.
3.2.9 carabiner, n—a self-closing, gated, load-bearing,
connective device.
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This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee F-8 on Sports
3.2.10 carabiner, locking, n—a carabiner with a gate-
Equipment, Surfaces, and Facilitiesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee
locking mechanism.
F08.21on Climbing and Mountaineering.
3.2.11 carabiner, nonlocking, n—a carabiner without a
Current edition approved April 10, 1997. Published August 1997.
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Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 14.02. gate-locking mechanism.
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Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 03.01.
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F 1773
3.2.12 chock, n—a device that is placed in a crack or pocket half, n—a climbing rope that must be used with another half
in rock and designed to withstand a load applied through rope with one or both ropes being attached to protection
webbing, rope, wire, or a carabiner. anchors.
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